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RS Reverb seatpost remote advice


hawkeye's picture

By hawkeye - Posted on 08 May 2016

NB: Originally posted elsewhere on the Global Riders Network and appears via syndication.

Got back on the MTB today for the first time in a few weeks due to a dicky knee, and had a chance to play with the dropper post. I like it.

By the end of the ride though, the joint at the base of my fragile desk jockey thumb was feeling rather tender. I think this is from having to push the plunger all the way home to get the saddle to move.

I know you can alter the rebound speed by twisting the dial on the end, but does anyone know if it is possible to get the post's locking mechanism to release earlier in the plunger's travel, or reduce the amount of force needed?

Thanks!

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Pants's picture

Sounds like it is in need of a bleed.

Plenty of how to's you can google and the bleed kits can be bought online relatively easily.

But reverbs have always needed a bit of force to push them in.

mudguts's picture

It's not a good solution but I use the palm of my hand, this only works when I know the trail and have plenty of time. The obvious downside is letting go of the bars to do it.

VTSS350's picture

Are you running the "plunger" above or below your bars??

Above is a terriable position, once its below the bars it becomes a lot easier to use.

Geegee's picture

Try moving it into different spots. I run mine on top as close to the grips as possible and almost flat I've tried it in other spots but on a 2x this seems to work best for me. It does take a bit of getting used to but I've find that either my thumb has got stronger or I'm just using it more effectively.

hawkeye's picture

Fork remote is on the left and I'm not giving up my 2x any time soon, so it is sitting on the right, above the bars and close to the grip.

I think the ergonomics would be OK if the I could reduce the travel and the amount of force required.

The remote for the HiLo seatpost on the Trigger is a lot more friendly to my MCP joint ligaments.

The bars are so busy now with controls, trying to find a place for the bell where I can reach it is a challenge!

Rich de Pom's picture

I bought a rhs version and put to the left so it is underneath the bars for added protection.
After a service it came with a new line and had issues and found that I had clamped the seat post too tight after numerous bleeds.
Recommend a bleed which is not hard but make sure the the lever is always above the post and do not tighten the post too tight on the seat stay.

MrMez's picture

Also did a RH lever upside down on the left.
A bit of a stupid design as std I think.

I struggled with a faulty post and went through several bleeds trying to fix it.
Bleeding it properly, including the remote actually causes the button to stick out further, requiring the most amount of travel to activate.
What you almost want to try is getting some air in the remote, or maybe better, taking some fluid out of the system which should cause the remote button to retract a little.

Or just stop playing with your pole so much Eye-wink

DudeistPriest's picture

My advice is: Remove remote, remove dropper post, install standard seatpost, no more problems

Pete B's picture

I also run mine on the left under the bar, (1x setup). Never noticed any trouble with mine, it starts retracting with only a slight depression of the plunger. Like others suggested, take it for a bleed. Alternatively, HTFU! Sticking out tongue

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