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Dabbling with Singlespeed
Hey guys, I know I'll probably be shot down for this, but I was just thinking of dabbling in some singlespeed. I was thinking of getting into it as a DIY project and just slowly build one up over time. Nothing urgent or immediate
What makes it slightly different is I was thinking of having a multi-purpose SS bike. SS to commute for added training (rather than add km's) and a SS for fun on the trails. Could this be as simple as 1 bike, 2 sets of wheels? Then there is the question of rigid fork or suspension, 29 or 26 and many others.
I feel that if I'm going to bother with SS, I may as well try 29 like Damien, Paul, Supergav and Carlgroover? It seems it will be more expensive going down the 29 route though and then there is the question of running which wheels for commuting? 700 road wheels? Would they look small/stupid in a 29er?
Cheapest option I feel would be getting a 26" SS frame with rigid forks. This would be great for commuting, however wouldn't be so great for the trails... i could even run just 1 set of wheel with easy rolling tyres like crossmarks?
The more expensive option would be to copy the crew and get a 29-er with 80-100 mm forks (with lockout). Apart from the Kona 2-9er Unit and the Karate Monkey Surly, what are my other frame options? I like the dropout on the Kona Unit as the disc mount follows the rear wheel. How much would I be expecting to pay for a frame like this and also the forks? This seems like more of a primary bike like Damien and Paul though.. not really a secondary "fun/cheap" bike I *think* I am looking for?
Supergav, I noticed you use your 29er to commute too. Do you change out the wheels (which size if so) or just change the tyres and put on some 29" slicks (is there such a thing?)
Of course maybe you suggest I'm insane and should just stick to the gears. After all I have a pretty bad set of knees... How bad is singlespeeding for the knees?
I just thought it could be a cheap fun project.. although I'm certain the costs will quickly add up like any project/boys toy.
Any input/abuse is welcome 
Cheers guys,
Loz
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Yes it will work and the chain will fit your regular chainring.
Personally I am just not comfortable with the smaller teeth and narrow lightweight gauge alloy on a front 9speed compatible ring I don’t trust them I like to put the power down up the hills and they can collapse under the sort of power and torque you put through the drive train on a single speed.
I am trying to get into this cheap first.. just in case I HATE it
hehe
Will start with this, and as I start to love it more and more.. will spec it up better and more towards PROPER SS....
Rode to work in 32-16 today and it felt pretty good
Will give 32-14 a shot home... but its hillier that way, so we'll see...
Loz
Lozza my dear chap, you going in the wrong direction with your ratios.
It's best to use the big ring of a regular mtb crank and space it inwards to get the desired chain line. Get some shorter crank bolts to do this and mount it on the inside of the spider. Also, if you presently have an x-type style bottom bracket then remove one or more spacers on the drive side.
At the rear choose a 18, 19, 20, 21 or 22 tooth sprocket to find your ideal ratio. Use an online gear calculator to help you.
Why is this better? When single speeding, one requires maximum tooth engagement with the chain. Simple as that. It's all mathematics and anyone can see that there are more teeth engaged using bigger rings and sprockets than smaller ones even when in the same effective gear.
As for chains, I'm of the opinion that regular multi speed chains are fine when used with the matching rings. Manufacturers spend their money here, not on single speed niche product. Ten speed would be a bit narrow though. I'd go xtr nine speed or better yet, HG-50 eight speed. Even with the extra stress of single speed, it'll be all good, and regular chain maintenance is crucial. Chains known as 1/2 and 1/8 suck. 3/32 is eight speed. If you must buy a super-duper one then buy wipperman.
... "buy a super-duper one then buy wipperman."
NO NO... If you must, then buy a ...... you know what I would buy!
Bernd
I just rode home 32-14 and only just made it up the final hill... WOO!!!
I see what you mean Delicious.. more teeth on chain = more force spread across them.....
so when I rode home in 32-14 tonight I should have actually used 44-18 or 44/21? I will give that a go tomorrow.
Shame I already got a 16T sprocket though.. I guess I should collect a few anyway to test different ratios... (14-16-18-21 is a good range I guess)
Thing is if I want to use it on the trail, I'd want 32-16 or 32-18? That would equate to 44-21 or 44-24? Cant seem to find any SS sprockets that come that big?
So drop middle and granny, use big ring and mount it on the inside.... will give it a go.. its an old school bike, and the cranks look like this: http://picasaweb.google.com.au/lozza6/MyNewScott...
Seems heaps of people run 32 rings ok though?
In any case, whilst I got all the gears I will also play around with the 44 ratios....
When I start dropping the shifting mechs etc, I still think I will go 32-14 for commute and if I desire to put nobblies on, I'll go 32-16 or 32-18.... Its just I associate 44-24 as quite a cross chain combination? (not that is matters in SS as I guess I could re-align the sprocket/ring)
Hmm I can see myself drifting towards the elusive 29er SS
Let me know if you guys see any good deals out there! 
Cheers,
Loz
That's right the logic of a bigger chainring and sprocket is all about spreading the load. I don't know why the 32-14, 15, and 16 combo is so popular. I've known plenty of blokes who have waxed philosophical to me about going single speed and the common thread is always to spread the load across the entire drive system.
To keep it cheap is also a common speech. MTB big rings do last longer than middle rings. Mostly because on most mtbs they go largely unused. But the other very important reason is that more tooth engagement means longer lasting, and that goes for the entire transmission. So even though big rings are initially dearer they do last longer. I reckon they look tougher too. Almost like they're cut from thicker plate.
On the basis you'll use your present multi speed hub and a fist full of spacers then perhaps take a look at the Surly rear sprockets. They are steel,deep tooth, slightly thicker than normal, non ramped and Surly recommend using 8 or 9 speed chains with them. Available up to 22 tooth. They also have chainrings in a variety of sizes too but for your crank they only go to a 36 tooth. You'll need true road cranks to get bigger sizes. I reckon regular big rings would be fine even if they are ramped and pinned. These big rings are often available in 42, 44 and 46.
As for changing ratios when going bush it would be just as simple to swap rings about on a 9 speed hub as a dedicated hub.
I've seen some have two sprockets side by side-with a spacer-on the hub and when necessary they just get off and move the chain across. The tension is catered for by the tensioner which is usually a stretched mech anyway.
Just so you know, I have a Karate Monkey on the way and apparently it'll be November sometime when it arrives. Initially it'll be my commuter. When it's ready you can have a go. I rode one ages ago, on road and liked it immediately. It is promoted as a true 29er so I'm sure it'll be great.
I rode Paul's Karate Monkey last night and loved it
36 would probably be a good compromise....
....or maybe I should TTFU and Ride 44-16
Will start things really simple first (32-16) SS chain and tensioner, then like all things hobby, I'll upgrade/add this, that and everything
Loz
.....Don't you have a stuffed Knee?
You need every one of those 27 gears buddy boy if you intend riding off into the sunset on your 70th Birthday
Pikey
I thought I'd share my project bike with you guys, so wrote up a blog entry.
W.
http://nobmob.com/node/6405
Thanks for sharing steve
I also will probably stick with the 1.5" slicks as I've got an stiff alu frame as well. After trialling commuting to work with 32-14 and 32-12 I really enjoy it, but have taken pete's advice and rode in 44-16 today. It wasn't bad but will need to grow some more for a few of the bigger hills.... What will be a real test is getting home as thats where the most hills are. I've been really enjoying riding to work SS and found it tough in places but surprisingly fun and handy. I cant wait to try the real thing and enjoy the silence and simplicity of it. Only problems I've found so far are coming up to big intersections where I need to cross. It can be a bit dicey with the 2.75 ratio to get any initial speed and I find I'm a sitting duck for a few seconds before I can get some quads on and get moving across the intersection. I really have to pic my moments to cross now. The other thing is trackstanding at lights becomes harder as I dont have my pedal movement to "rock" the bike on the spot.... With tight cleats, it could end in an embarrassing fall!
I've already got a 16t SS sprocket (Thanks Paul) and will do as Pete said and run my 44 ring on the inside of the spider and take off the middle and granny rings. Bernd, you'll be pleased to know I've got a whipperman 100 SS chain which will be ready to go on. All I need now is a chain tensioner and a bit of time to put it all together
Can't wait! 
Hey Lozza i have a old Surly chain tensioner that i will not use. You have it if you want?
That'd be great if thats ok with you?
wicked!!! I'm so close to SSing to work! yay!
Hey I've done it after much kaffufle...
I measured the chain and found it fit perfectly, then I popped the chain only to realise how stupid I was and had popped it off at a half link.... So I then called basically every single bike store to find that nobody stocks Half Chain links!!
After much frustration, I realised I had better chances just getting a 1/8" connecting link for my SS chain. As a result I used 1 link to lengthen it 1/2 a link and then a 2nd link to join them together...
Oh well, you live 'n learn....
Rode it to work for the first time today. Loved it, but I did have it skip a few times. Chain seems to be fairly tensioned so I have no idea why it is happening. Any ideas? I found that with smooth and constant pedal pressure it was ok. It was only when I jerked on the power that this seemed to happen... Maybe a good thing, forcing me to deliver my power more steadily rather than just stabbing at the pedals? I can't tension it up unfortunately due to it then fouling on the chainstay even though its only 1/2 a link too long. Maybe a half link connector could solve my problem?
Also I need to take to the big ring with a dremel as the shifting ramps get nick against the big SS chain and the clicking noise while I pedal is annoying as!
In any case, after single speeding for a few months, here I am doing it the REAL way!
Before
After
Closeup
Which way around are the guide wheels on the Singleator (I can't quite tell from the pics)? For 1/8 they should look like this
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|==|
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/ \
For 3/32" they look like this
/ \
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\ /
Also you'll get more chain wrap around the rear cog if you can use the Singleator in the push up position.
The chain is skipping because there isnt enough chain wrap around the rear cog you need to use the singulator in the push up position to give the chain more contact points on the cog and stop it skipping.
Hey lozza to give your self enough space to clear the chain stay you need to move the whole chainline in and base it around the middle cog. It puts the chain more towards the centre reducing the stress the stress on the rear wheel etc as well.
The other option you have is to go one tooth bigger on the back and just about have the perfect chain length. This would mean you need to spin a bit faster but this is also a very good thing that riding SS teaches you as well.
I got to the point of been able to spin a 34-17 fast enough to be able to keep up with people ridinng geared bikes down a gravel road. It wasnt pretty but I could do it!!!
Enjoy the new ride!!! you will find it is a lot faster than runningg SS through the derailuar like you were.
You're feet would have looked like an eggbeater blur! hahahaha
Yes unfortunately my big ring can't mount on the inside as there are nobs in the way on the crank spider. I might be able to move the rear cog in so as to get the chain away from the chain stay and tension it upwards....
How lucky am I!
Got the Single Speed commuter 100% sorted now thanks to a 1/8" half link that SupaGav gave me!
http://nobmob.com/node/6732#comment-23075
So yeah with the half link I managed to get my 44 ring and my 16t cog to fit perfectly even thought it has a vertical dropout! AMAZING!
No need for a tensioner!
I might put the Singleator on later and tension it upwards though if I start to get some stretch, but its a solid Whipperman 1/8" SS chain, so I don't see it stretching anytime soon
Check it!
Thanks to everyone for their help/advice/parts etc!
Single Speeding and Loving It!
Cheers,
Loz