You are hereForums / By Discipline / Mountain (off road) / MTB Gear / Guide to building my own MTB?
Guide to building my own MTB?
Hi guys,
I'm planning to build my own dual-suspension MTB, and was wondering if anyone had a handy link to a guide?
One major concern that I've got is that I'll forget some small (but critical) component, and when I actually sit down to build it I'll then have to wait for another part to arrive! I've never done something like this before, and it's a bit of a project for fun ... as well as being able to build my dream bike.
I've ordered a 2011 Merida Ninety-Six Carbon 3000-D frame, which comes with the rear-suspension (and maybe a headset?). I've got the following components. Have I missed anything obvious?
-Cranks
-Cassette
-Shifters/Brake Levers/Calipers (I bought these as a set, with pre-bled cables).
-Discs front/rear
-Front Deraileur
-Rear Deraileur
-Chain
-Wheels
-Tyres
-Stem
-Handle Bar
-Seat Post
-Seat
-Pedals
-Front Fork
Anything else?
Thanks,
Rune
- Login to post comments
- Bookmark & share
or already with handlebars
Yep, that could be important. I'll have to pick up a set!
Thanks.
Some cranks don't come with one
Assume frame also has seat clamp
Possibly Cable Housings for the shifter cables
Hey Rune, well done on having a crack at DYI. You'll be doing plenty of running around over small parts such as cable housing etc but that's half the fun. Chances are you'll find something you have bought won't fit but again that's part of the learning. If you get stuck just post your problem or part requirement and you'll be inundated with help. A lot of us Nobmobers build our own bikes.
Got all the tools you need?
Couple of tricky ones not in a standard toolkit:
Low range torquewrench
Something to cut the gear housing. (tip, a Dremel works far better than cablecutters)
Thanks for all the input!
I'm sure I'm missing a few tools, but at this point I have no idea what tools I'd even need. All I have is a generic tool kit which I bought off of T7 some months back and even there I can't remember what's in it.
Pretty sure I'll also need the cable guides, seat clamp, etc.
I don't even know what the bottom bracket is! My mechanical experience with bikes is fairly limited ... I've been riding for about a year, and reading as much as I can since I decided to build my own, but that's it!
-Rune
Reflectors and Spokey Dokeys
If time permits my next bike is hopefully going to be a build my own. Aside from parts, I reckon I've become pretty handy with bike mechanics through bicycletutor.com, Zinn and The Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance (having a book open is sometimes easier than being near your computer!) and just plain old YouTube. I am sure someone will bring these sources up!
Let us know how you as as it sounds like you're in a similar position to me with regards to MTB experience!
Don't forget beer and patience - if something doesn't fit, click tighten correctly etc, don't force it. Could be a costly mistake.
Measure twice and cut once. You may find it takes a few weeks all up as you run to the shop to get the odd part etc.
It's worth putting all the bits together loosely one day to see how they fit etc and what if anything is missing and what tools you don't have. Make a list and that way you minimise trips to the bike shop.
First day, take it to the store and get the bottom bracket shell and brake tabs faced if they aren't already. Also get them to press the headset (you can do this yourself but it has to be aligned 100% and good tools for this are $400+). After that you can do a lot of the work yourself with an allen key set and torque wrench. BBB do a low cost one (about $50) that is quite good but most stores have a budget option (just don't go too cheap).
If you don't have a cassette whip and lock ring tool they are worth getting as you'll get the use out of them over time.
Maybe this would be a good separate thread if it hasn't been done already - all teh tools you should own with links to options, plus the tools that you could invest in if you plan to do all your own maintenance etc (crown race remover, crank puller, headset press etc)
make sure your brakes come with adapters
always have extra shifter cables, housing and cable ends. Cable ties are also important. some good quality bike grease, locktite,
Workshop stand makes the job easier. Grips???
Expect to round out a hex bolt, i always make sure i get down to the bolt shop to make sure i have some spare bolts of various sizes
Get yourself a copy. There's a new edition just out. Best $40 I've ever spent.
What Shifters/Brakes/Calipers did you get?
Any bolt that doesn't specifically require loctite (eg, disc rotor and caliper mounting bolts, FD retention bolt) shoudl have grease aplied to the threads to prevent siezing.
I'm sure you've got it pretty sussed, but thought of a few things to check.
Is the seatpost the correct size?
Seatpost clamp? Should come with the frame, but if not, you'll need one.
Fork steerer tube long enough?
Tubes for the wheels, or are you going tubeless?
If going tubeless, tubeless conversion kit and sealant.
Is the wheelset the right axle sizes for the frame/forks?
Good luck with the build.
But pretty useful… a workstand.
Where can I find loctite? Will the LBS carry it? I'll also need to pick up some oil, because right now I've only got chain oil.
I've watched a few of the videos on bike maintenance from bicycletutor.com and it's at least given me some idea of what's in store for me.
I don't actually have a seat post yet, because I wasn't sure what to get or what size was needed. I may steal one off my old bike until I can order one that I really want (assuming it fits). Need to check the frame also and see if the seat post clamp is there.
I'm currently overseas so I don't know for certain what is included .... Will be home next weekend, and can't wait to start building this!
I'm planning to run a tubeless setup with Shimano WH-M970 wheels (which support tubeless I think), and I've got Maxxis Ignitor UST 2.1 and 2.35 tyres.
I've got a full complement of Shimano XTR components. Shifters, brake levers, calipers, front/rear deraileur, cranks, cassette, pedals, etc. I started out only planning to do the drivetrain and then just got carried away!
Loctite is available at any autoshop, bunnings etc but it does depend on which one you are after.
don't get worried about it. Building a bike is actually very very simple. The key is to go slowly. My first few builds were a little rushed. I ended up making some very silly mistakes as a result of rushing.
Make sure you have a clean work space, have all your tools and parts laid out ready to go. Have a good bike stand (Tow bar bike racks work a treat if you don't have a stand). But most of all, go slowly, and be prepaired to have to make a dash or 2 to the LBS for that little thing you forgot, or bought the wrong size.
You will probaly make a mistake, however if you take it slow, you will detect the mistake before it becomes a problem.
I got my Loctite from Hardware and General's industrial supply department. There's a whole range for different applications that I used ot use when racing R/C cars, but the main one you're after is the blue one - I think that's either 242 or 243.
They also have good quality torque wrenches available and if they don't have the one you want in stock (2-20Nm with 1/4" drive) they can order in on a short turnaround like a week or so. I have 2-15Nm. They will also have excelletn quality driver tips - nice hard ones, not the soft rubbish that sometimes passes for home workshop standard in bike tools.
For grease, marine grease is recommended (outboard motor grease?) as the gold standard for things like BB's, hubs and seat posts where water ingress is a risk. I've been using high temperature car bearing grease. For bolts like stems, lefty axle bolts, pedals I use white lithium grease like TF2.
For your BB
I picked up my frame yesterday, very excited. However it doesn't have a Headset, and I've no idea which one to get.
Any suggestions?
Also, is there anything more I'd need in relation to the headset/steering mechanism? I've got a stem and handlebar, and I'm taking the Forks off of my old bike (Scott Scale 40) until I find a suitable replacement/upgrade. I think they're Fox 32 F100RL (100mm travel), but I'd have to check to be sure.
There seem to be so many different options in regards to the headsets, and I've no idea what to get!
I've have one on my 575 and it's been flawless. Check their headset finder to find the right one for your frame http://www.canecreek.com/headset-fit-finder
I think you have got all the bike bits covered.
I suggest you start to collect the tools and assembly stuff you will need prior to the build as well because it's frustrating looking at your pile of bits but not being able to start because there is a two week wait for the bottom bracket tool to come in.
So...
* Good set of metric allen keys
* Bottom bracket tool and whatever you need to drive it (eg 1/2" wrench)
* Cassette lockring tool and whatever you need to drive it (eg socket + 1/2" wrench)
* T25 torx for brake rotors
* Chain breaker and joining pin or quick link
* You will need a few common hand tools like screwdrivers, pliers, spanners. I reckon better off to buy these as required if you don't already have them. Either that or invest in a small tool kit as they are handy to have anyway.
* Loctite, grease, lube, anti sieze
* Some way of cutting cable inners and housings, be it hacksaw, dremel, proper cutters etc (I actually cut my inners by giving them a quick zap with my tig - fuses the end together just like they come out of the box and you don't have to use those ugly little crimp on things)
* I have never had pre built brake lines come in anywhere near the length I needed, always miles too long. So I would factor in some line hardware (eg insert and olive) and some brake fluid. Not always in stock at your LBS and can be a frustrating wait.
* Torque wrench is up to you. If you are playing with carbon bits then it's probably useful but otherwise I consider it a fairly expensive investment. On bikes the torque recommendations seem to be more about avoiding over tightening and common sense can get you by.
Have fun.
I've heard of Cane Creek, and I just tried the headset-finder ... but they don't list my frame (Merida Ninety-Six Carbon 3000-D). I tried to answer all their other questions, but I'm so lost.
Gotta do some more research I guess!
also does awesome headsets http://chrisking.com/headsets
BTW I'm sure if you email Cane Creek they will be able to advise
Well, I'm making some progress ... and figuring out that I'm missing a few pieces here and there.
1) The pre-bled brake levers/calipers are setup american style ... so the brake lines are swapped ... long cable for the front brake, etc. Guess I'll need to learn how to bleed brakes! At least this way I can measure the correct length and set it up properly!
2) I seem to be missing a lockring tool for installing the cassette. Gotta pick one up? The Shimano techdoc says I need a "TL-LR15" ... would the generic lockring tool that comes with a bike maintenance kit be the same?
3) I'm worried I might have the wrong type of Freehub. I bought some Shimano XTR-M975 wheels with the hubs inclusive. The description said 8-9-10 speed compatible ... but when I look at the Shimano Techdoc for the freehub (FH-M975) it appears to NOT be compatible with the new XTR 10-speed cassette (CS-M980) as it only lists the 9-speed cassette (CS-M970). But maybe that's just cause the document was written before the 10-speed cassette existed?
Anyone know anything about this? Since I can't even get the cassette out of the packaging (missing the tool), I haven't confirmed that it truly doesn't fit on the Freehub ... but now I'm afraid that I'll need to buy a new Freehub which is 10-speed compatible.
Sheldon Brown seems to say that the hubs are compatible ... but I'd like to know for sure!
I'd also like to put in a special thanks to the guys at the workshop from Bike Addiction in North Manly. They've been extremely helpful and friendly. That type of service really makes me want to come back! I'll certainly keep doing business with them.
Anything like this will do.... http://www.parktool.com/product/cassette-lockrin...
If you have centrelock brakes suggest getting one that will do these as well to avoid having to buy the same thing over again.
I like the idea of the Shimano one which takes a 1/2" drive but it's 2x the price
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?M...
I'll have to check what I've got at home in the toolkit. The images from your links look familiar, but when I tried to use them yesterday they seemed to be the wrong size.
The problem with posting from work is that I can't just pop into the garage and look at the tools! Frustrating. Wish I could just take a week off to dedicate to building (and riding!).
Thanks!
Haven't heard anything about 10sp not being backward compatible but if you look at:
http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/techdocs/conte...
The freehub on the M988 (10spd) wheelset is also identified as being the 'same part' as that on the M975 (same part number too as you would expect).
Very cool. I hadn't noticed that. Guess I just need to try it out and see if it fits!
Thanks!
1) I had the same issue when I bought my commuter from the US. It was using Shimano Deore brakes and I just carefully swapped the lines over without drama. No fluid came out and you could see the muniscus of the fluid was still covering the end of the lines so no air got in and the brakes still work fine to this day. Having said that I may have been lucky and other brands may not fare so well. I saw your other post on bleeding kits, if you're running avids you will need a specific kit
2) That is the same tool that is in the generic Torpedo 7 etc kits
Go to Super Cheap Auto and buy a round end spanner at the size of your lockring tool. Get the longest one you can for best leverage. Keep this in your tool box, you will use again and again. It makes removing the cassette SO MUCH easier. I think I paid $8 for mine. Best thing I ever did for removing my cassette (which I do after most rides to clean it).
Only a week off? I wish I could take off 52 weeks for riding and building bikes
@phil ... thanks for the comment on the spanner, for the lockrings .. that helped out so much! Had to estimate what 40-60nM of force is though (for the rotors) ... cause i don't have a torque wrench that goes that high, lol.
I've now got the cassette and the rotors on both wheels. There was no issue putting the 10-speed cassette on ... except I missed a spacer which goes next to the wheel the first time and had to take it off and reinstall.
I was able to swap the cables from the brake levers so they are now at least on the correct side. I did lose a bit of fluid out of both of them though. The calipers still move when the brake lever is pulled, but once i've got it fully assembled I'll bleed the brakes to be sure there's no air trapped in the lines.
Next up! Running the shift cables, and attaching the calipers.
Spent most of the day working on it with a friend, and it's almost finished. Only need to get the brakes mounted, and have the bike checked out by the shop. Figured I'd have them do the brakes too becaues I don't have the correct sized spacers to mount the calipers, and the cable lengths need to be adjusted anyways.
How about a photo?? It's looking good!
-Greg-
Looking good!