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Tubeless


chrischris's picture

By chrischris - Posted on 29 December 2011

NB: Originally posted elsewhere on the Global Riders Network and appears via syndication.

I've just had my first experience with 'Stans', CO2 cannisters, & installing a tubeless tyre. Quite straight forward, thank you to YouTube!

I have XTR tubeless ready rims. I have this evening taken off Kenda Small Block 8's (wirebead - with an inner tube) and replaced it with a proper tubeless tyre (Maxxis LUST Crossmark).

My question is... when I removed the Kenda, it appeared to be seated correctly for tubeless use. So can I use any tyre as tubeless on these rims? Or did the tyre just 'appear' to sit correctly. Can I keep this Kenda for tubeless use in the future? What about my Maxxis 'wormdrive'? (also wirebead)

Brian's picture

I use non tubeless tyres as tubeless without any major dramas. Proper UST are easier and I never have issues but they are heavier.

whiskers's picture

stick to ust tyres for tubeless in my experance anyway using non ust tyres for tubless can be quite painfull trying to bead them...what happen when i tryed blew the tyre in to peices snaped the valve and near on deafend me just blew straight of the rim lucky i was at the lbs when it happened...scored a free replacment tyre Smiling

Logan's picture

I thought Stans and CO2 was a bad mix?

hawkeye's picture

I did this for my first tubeless setup with success.

Sealant is not optional like it is for UST. They are often much lighter than UST tyres. How much depends on brand - Kenda are bricks, Schwalbe are relatively light and Maxxis in between. The light weight is great for performance but as a result are more prone to sidewall cuts on rocks. Non-tubeless can also be much more challenging to get to air up. Some you can't. The main reason I stick with UST rubber is that non-UST can burp off the rim unless you keep the pressures up. I tend to run mine on the low side - mid to high twenties (psi) - and losing a front tyre suddenly to instantaneous decompression on a fast rough descent is not something I want to contemplate.

I'd consider using non-tubeless run as tubeless for racing on a relatively benign circuit like Yellowmundee, and maybe places like Awaba and to a lesser extent Ourimbah, but for Manly Dam and other Sydney sandstone trails, general trail riding, or point-to-point 50 and 100km events I'd want the reassurance that the extra sidewall rubber and tighter beads in UST tyres provides.

daveh's picture

There are no hard and fast rules about using tubeless specific rims and/or tyres but as everyone has said, having one, the other, or both will make it a lot easier to set them up. One of the main reasons I went tubeless was to prevent flats and since tubeless specific tyres have thicker sidewalls, this is going to reduce the chances of a sidewall tear, especially given Sydney's terrain.

It is recommended against using a CO2 canister to inflate tyres with sealant in them. I understand that it reacts with the sealant to make it less effective or even form a solid ball. Even if not immediately then at least shortening the life of the sealant. Of course, I am sure that there are plenty of people that have experienced otherwise!

chrischris's picture

I only used the CO2 to inflate the tyre and get it to seat correctly. Then I deflated the tyre... & re-inflated with regular air. I can still hear the Stans sloshing around in the tyre.

As I don't have my own air compressor, I'll have to make a trip down to the service station next time.

daveh's picture

That's where I believe having the tubeless specific tyres and/or rims will come into its own. I have two bikes set up tubeless, a 26er and a 29er and both have tubeless specific tyres (Maxxis on one and Specialized on the other) on non-tubeless specific rims. I have very easily been able to get them inflated with a floor pump with absolutely no problem whatsoever. This is definitely still possible with standard tyres and rims but I have no doubt that the tubeless specific tyres help make it a walk in the park.

danielschipper's picture

I had tried to convert non-UST rims and tyres to tubeless with a stands kit. COmplete failure as I just could not get any air into the tyre and ended up taking it to the LBS to have them fit some UST tyres.

Have just got some new wheels (thanks slow pup)and was a bit conners about getting the tyres to inflate (Maxis Cross Mark). U'm using a standard floor pump. First attempt was with the valve for core still in and I didn't seem to get enough pressure to force the type to seal on the rim. Pulled the valve core out and hey presto..... inflated immediately. Poured the Stans in, put the valve core back in and no problems at all. Rode today and all good.

kadi1996's picture

i just set up my giant s-cx2 wheels (which are not tubeless ready) to tubeless with ust maxxis tires and used stans with no problems what so ever

Slowpup's picture

Glad to hear you got set up with no problems Daniel. I should have offered the use of the compressor when you were around.

jeffmtb's picture

I have just bought a high volume lezynne pump. sealed brand new scwalbe ust tyres on my new crossmax wheels no problem.Also has a huge gauge that is very easy to read.
I recomend it as a must have accessary,my old floor pump is now history.
Took 15 pumps from flat to 30 psi.

jackthelad's picture

On a tangent

has anyone had luck running commuting tyres tubeless
i have a Swalbe marathon tire,
has anyone tried running this or a different slick tubeless with sealant,
on mavic 819 rims
Jack

hawkeye's picture

TBH, I would not be very comfortable running road slicks (even 26x1,3 mtb slicks like Conti Sport Contacts) tubeless unless they were UST. The pressures are much higher and the sidewalls pretty thin.

The consensus from the thread was only to run designated tubeless road tyres as tubeless, too risky otherwise.

Cotic Tony's picture

I'm wondering how much advantage running tubeless on a slick is going to be. After all if you want puncture protection you can buy slime tubes and if you want light weight the UST capable casing will counter any advantage because it'll be heavier.
I also remember reading something a while back where someone tried to do the same thing and blew the bead off at 80psi with such a bang he couldn't hear for hours.
I know that 819's are a super tough tubeless ready xc rim so think that you probably want to make the most of their tubeless ability. If it was me I'd fit Schwalbe Furious Fred USTs as they're fast rolling and give more cushioning.

As for slicks, I have run Maxxis Xenith 1.5s with light presto tubes for ages on a set of old mtb wheels & although not a light tyre they work well.

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