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Questions on wheel upgrade


ozgti's picture

By ozgti - Posted on 05 May 2013

NB: Originally posted elsewhere on the Global Riders Network and appears via syndication.

I'm looking to upgrade my wheels. Had anyone tried running different width front and rear wheels? I thought of trying Stan's flow on the front ( internal width 25mm) and the Arch on the rear (internal width 21mm). The reasoning is that the wider front wheel would suit bigger tires, Ardent 2.25 or Hans Dampf 2.35. I plan on running a tire around 2 or 2.1 on the rear, hence a narrower width would be ok. The Arch is also lighter which is a plus. So anyone tried this? Otherwise I might just go with the Arch front and rear. Would the width of the Arch be ok with wide tires? I did read that wider rims are better for handling.

Also, apart from CRC and Wiggle, what sites have others tried for custom built wheels? I plan on checking with TWE also.

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Hop fiend's picture

went the other way!-wrecked my rear rim-so went wider & stronger.

Simon's picture

Heaps of DH rigs run 2.3" fine on Mavic 721's with 21mm internal.

I run 2.3" with 721's on my All Mountain HT and is fine. The specialized 2.3s are also more like a Maxis 2.5.

I'd consider running 21mm rims front and rear and a smaller tyre on the rear.

Running a 25mm rim on the front sounds like extra weight at the wrong end of the bike. Prefer my bike to be tail heavy if not neutral. I run dual ply rear tyre and single on the front as my HT gets a hammering.

Swapping the rear tyre to a skinny XC works real well for longer riders and still let's the front end hook up.

ozgti's picture

I think 2.3 is ok on a 21mm rim but is there a handling benefit from running a wider rim? Less tire squirm? Would I notice a 4mm difference in rim width? The idea came after reading the following article.

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday--Wider...

I did notice the Maxxis tires are smaller. I replaced a Specialized 2.0 with a Maxxis 2.1 and the Maxxis is definitely more narrow. I'm a lightweight and do general trail rides, no big drops or jumps. So i think the Arch would be fine from a strength point of view. Just after the best performance and handling with minimum weight.

Also any recommendations on which websites are good for wheels?

Cotic Tony's picture

Your idea is good as 2.3 is generally the max recommended for the 21mm XC rims. The wider rim will mean that the wider front tyre will be less prone to sideways flex and the profile will be fat & low. Personally I'd go something like a 2.4 Nobby Nic / 2.25 Ralph in snakeskin.

As you have mentioned different manufacturers have slightly different
sizing and with the measurement generally being across the knob/ total width some tyres (Eg a 2.1 Ignitor) looks significantly smaller than, say a 2.1 Crossmark.
A 2.2 Michelin is a monster!

Bear in mind though that you will then be fairly committed to this set up & heavier front end, if you put similar tyres both ends the front would be appear smaller due to the lower profile & you will have less snakebite protection/cushioning.

Personally, as you mention being a fairly light rider I'd recommend going for slightly wider rims (23mm)both ends then you can pick & choose tyres up to about 2.4.

chrischris's picture

This article may or may not help.

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/Tech-Tuesday--Wider...

Simon's picture

I don't like the way he has explained it but engineering wise there is some sense behind it.

Would have drawn the diagrams differently myself.

How much difference it makes, not sure.

However when I ran tubeless it was always the back that burped as it spends more time sliding sideways. The front wheel is generally pointing where you want to go.

Sickman's picture

Go with the Flows.
I got some Flows with Hope II hubs. Got the standard spokes instead of straight pull due to ease of repair and I read they are just still a better wheel build. I have been swapping them between my Trail and XC bikes and work great on both. Got them from either Wig or CRC cannot remember. Going a lot better than the 2 pairs of Crossmaxs that broke and buckled within 6 months of getting them.

ozgti's picture

What's the difference between normal and straight pull spokes?

Any opinions on the Stan's 3.30 hubs?

Cotic Tony's picture

Straight pull have the head in line with the spoke whereas on normal ones the head is at 90 degrees.
I've got straights on my light wheels but don't rate then as strong as traditional. Must have specific hubs as well.

Btw. Merlin cycles do good hand built wheels & you can spec the colour of the Hope hubs as well. On sale at the mo, $390 a pair of Pro 2 Evo's on Mavic 719s (others avbl) delivered can't be bad.

T

ozgti's picture

Another question. I have the normal quick release. I have seen that DT Swiss have a thru bolt 9mm on the front and 10mm on the rear that I might be able to use with my QR. anyone tried these? Does it add to the stiffness. If I'm getting new hubs I might as well give these a try. Not going to change forks.

doc's picture

The front and rear thru axles are definitely worth it over standard QR. Much improved handling on 29er HT when I changed over.

ozgti's picture

Hey Doc, did you change to the 9mm or 15 mm thru axle?

doc's picture

Used 9mm RWS through bolt on QR fork. Havent done the comparison on 26in but significantly better on 29in wheel

ozgti's picture

Another question. What's the widest tyre one can run on 18mm internal width rims?

what would you consider a light trail wheelset would weigh?

XT hubs. What's their reliability like? Why the they much cheaper than other hubs like Hopes, Dt etc?

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