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SRAM XX1
NB: Originally posted elsewhere on the Global Riders Network and appears via syndication.
I've been using SRAM XX for a few years but my new bike arrives in 3 weeks and I've been given the choice of running Shimano XTR in 2 x 10 like my current setup or the SRAM XX1. I haven't paid any attention to XX1 as I haven't had a need to until now and just assumed a 1x system would only suit those with legs of steel like our elite racers.
I would love to hear from those who have made the change and how they have found it. Especially those who don't finish the 100km races in 4hrs as the 4hr guys legs are in no way like mine 
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And it is great, about 1kg of front rings and shifters etc off my bike and running a 30 ring up the front (wolftooth narrow wide, no chain guide) I can climb any hill at the dam. My half fling was 4:16 so I'm by no means super fit. So I could only imagine one extra low gear and one extra high one with XX1 would be perfect. Guess i'll upgrade myself the day I spin out in top gear, might be while yet...
I was originally running a 2x10 X7 setup, but I broke my front shifter one day so I decided to try 1x10. Fell in love with it even when I was running the standard 38T ring. Felt the upgrade was worthwhile, so I went 1x10 Zee with a 36T E Thirteen chain ring. Admittedly the first few rides were brutal, but when the legs got used to it, I felt it to be far superior to 2x10.
In saying this however, this is for an AM type application, so I'm not really sure as to how it would go for XC.
Hope this helps.
The result is going to be personal preference and depend on terrain or course ridden, fitness, strength and type of riding.
Essentially a 2x10 gives you three or four extra unique gears over a 1x11 depending on chain ring sizes. If your terrain/strength/fitness mix can handle a 1x11 then that is clearly the better option. If however you can't handle the terrain/strength/fitness mix using 1x11 then 2x10 may be better for you.
You could try changing a front ring on your current set up to give you the same low gearing as one of the 1x11 options and see how it goes on whatever terrain you have. You could also restrict yourself to using the same ratios on your XX as is available on a 1x11. Better to gear for the climbs than the DH and you can't gear a 1x11 as low as a 2x10. The lowest ratio for 1x11 is 28*42 equivalent to a 24*36. So see how you go on your steepest climbs with that and then on the 24*32.
For me a 1x11 just doesn't have the spread of gearing that a 2x10 allows (or a 3x10). So if you are just making it up 20%+ grades in your current 2x10 then you may be walking with a 1x11. Unless you change front rings and gear it down so you can climb them. Then you may spin out in top. All depends on terrain/strength/fitness. If you use little/big (granny/large cog) combination now then a 1x11 may be a risk.
Currently running XX and I use all the gears (15 different ratios/combinations) and even then I'm grinding up the steapest and doing 110 rpm in top on some downhills. (thats from 5 kph @ 70 cadence in low and 50 kph @ 110 cadence in top) .
For XC (short course) racing a 1x11 may be far superior as lighter, simpler and you can change the gearing to suit the course by changing the front ring.
FWIW
PS: depending on terrain I take 6 hour+ for 100km
Are wheel options still limited with XX1? When it came out one of the issues was having to buy into a compatible wheelset, but I think more compatible freehubs have since become available from various makes. Worth checking out for your current and any long term intended wheelsets though.
Then there's the stupidly expensive XX1 or XO1 cassettes. I wouldn't fancy that on a consumable item.
I just did the highland fling with a new specialized epic with an XO1 drivetrain. Never wanted more gears and was no where near a 4hr finish (I took 5:40).
Not having a front derailleur also means you don't have to think about which chain ring to be in and are never caught in the wrong one. I find that to be really helpful.
Good page to compare ratios.
http://gears.mtbcrosscountry.com/#26I2I3
I considered it for my build ~ a year ago.
Had already converted my outgoing bike to a 1x10 (Shimano XT, 32 x 11-36). For the Perth 'hills' there is nothing too long or too steep, either up or down to warrant anything longer or shorter for me.
New bike got a combo of Saint and XTR, but eventually ended up with a 34t in front. I love shimano and XT, so I knew I would love this. I-spec mounts mean the gear shifter bolts onto the brake mount for neater handlebars.
Replacement parts can be expensive too.
Running xx1 with grip shift on my 29er. Very happy with it. Only recommendation I'd make though is to get 2 spare chainrings, one 2 teeth bigger and one 2 teeth smaller than what you would normally run for your general riding area. This will let you run a bigger gear on the flat corses and a smaller gear on the steeper ones.
Having spare chainrings sounds like a good idea.
What you should also do is think about carrying one, or both of those rings with you though. That way, when you come to a steep hill, you won't find yourself regretting leaving the spare rings at home. I know it's hard to carry this stuff in your backpack, but think this problem is solved with a special crank that has a space to bolt the spare rings to. I've even read you can accompany this with a device that will transfer drive between them without even having to stop - it's genius! What's more, if you do this then it's not necessary to run that dinner plate sized rear cluster.
</sarcasm>
I ran a 1x10 all season and it was fine. 11-36 cassette and 34 tooth chain ring. Only time I wanted for more was the goat farm climb and some of the fast road stages in Cape to Cape I was short on gears. I finish the 100km races around 5 hours. Was no problem at all in D100. The SRAM XX1 has one more gear at either end than I had with a 10-42 cassette so that should be even better.
+1 Rob's pragmatic fun poke
That dinner plate is all unsprung weight.......
+1 to Rob and hathill... lol
D'rather keep my dinner plates in the cupboard at home
As Blocky wrote: "Only time I wanted for more was the goat farm climb and some of the fast road stages in Cape to Cape I was short on gears." If every other ride you do has similar features, steepish uphills and fastish long downhills, then 1x11 isn't for you, 2x10 is or preferably 2x11 (it can be done
). If you rarely do such terrain mixes then 1x11 can be for you.
I suspect the move to 'approved' trails has resulted in less variation in terrain.
I also like Rob's idea of carrying a spare chainring on the crank - develop it further and imagine if that could be done with three chain rings! you wouldn't need such a lot of unsprung weight on the cassette - imagine a 20*30*40 chain ring set up. That means I could get away with only 8 cogs say 12x32 on the cassette and have wider gearing than a 1x11 and the same as a 2x10 with 11x36!!! Could also mean a narrower more rigid rear triangle, stronger wheels, wow - think I may look into it - - - oh wait - wasn't that what we started with 25+ years ago??
Ok thanks for all the feedback and most recently the laughter. I'll check the info provided and do my homework. As my wife says "you hardly have a racing snake physic so how about you loose some grams cheaply before you worry about titanium bolts on your bike".
+1 for your mrs
For the last 20 years odd had 3 x 7, 8, 9 and 10 as each craze hit the stage. When i finally did some decent training found myself using granny ring less and less as fitness improved. On my latest rig i switched to 2 x 10 when replacing the drive train and found this great and simpler experience.
Have been riding mainly in Townsville where we had loooong climbs (one 4km and another 16km) as well doing races all over the Atherton tablelands with pinches of 20%. Also cycletoured Tasi (before i changed drivetrains) and found i was really only using granny ring on steep climbs (fully loaded and at about 5 - 8km/hr) this was on 3*10 with 24, 34, 44 and 12 - 36 cassette.
My times are not spectacular, i did the paluma push in 4hours 50mins (70km and alot of climbing 800 odd meters).
Since moving over here (Perth) have been spending alot more time on the bike and find that i dont even use the bottom ring any more ... so effectively 1x 10 (39*12 - 36).
I am getting a new bike in the next few weeks, a new 29er with 1*11 so ill see how things fare? but am looking forward to less clutter, although with remotes for the dropper post and forks/ suspension this may be a mute change.
Matt
Slightly different take - sore knees.
Pushing harder can make the fronts of your knees sore as you get older, whereas spinning uses te cardiovascular system and stresses the knees less.
2nd - exploration and moto track riding - if you do a bit of this xx1 will mean a fair bit of walking, the 2x, not so much, and obviously on bitumen going downhill you can still pedal on 2x.
I've got both, I like having both.. The 2x bike is the explore and poor conditions bike, the xx1 for racing and shorter rides generally
If it was me choosing I would go with XX1 for an XC race bike in Australia. You don't really need a broader range of gears for most XCO or marathon race conditions. Having said that last year in a 5:00 dirt works I did walk a few of the pinch climbs on the last hill. This year in a 4:40 I rode them. imho gearing didn't make that much difference, fitness and power to weight ratio did.
My experience with a 2* setup is that I never used the smaller ring in XCO and only used it less than 5 times in a marathon.
Over here in NZ at the moment I rarely use the big ring but Its also pretty rare that I get over 30kph so lower gearing would work for the hills round wellington.
btw Rob and others who think 2* & 3* is so much better. On every muddy race I have been to the front derailure stops working by the half way make. Understand its a spec epic issue for me but there are plenty of other full suspension designs with the same problem. The reason a lot of people went XX1 wasn't just weight, it was also reliability.
... there's a whole new can of worms. Should we be riding them? LOTS of riders and wet conditions. I have my doubts.
Some interesting issues raised in the following opinion pieces:
Part 1:
http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-events/opin...
Part 2:
http://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-events/opin...
Maybe just keep this thread on XX1
My wife says the same thing....
I just explain that when I take weight off the bike, it doesn't put it straight back on again !
CB
@Brian: The relevance is this: if muddy races are one's reason for switching to XX1, perhaps it would be a good idea to consider whether continuing to race in those conditions is appropriate.
It certainly doesn't do the tracks any good and if mud and the frequency thereof was my reason for making the switch, then I think it would be fair game for me to be challenged to undertake a bit of self-examination.
I've recently lost around 8kgs.
My power to weight has gone through the roof, I'm flying up the hills.
Do I need XX1?
Shit yeah!
A bit sexist I know but if your wife bought some new diamond earrings, it's not gonna make her better looking but they'll make her feel a damn sight better about herself!
Don't quote me on that ok?
whether to run 1x or 2x etc seems to be a quite personal thing. I've run 1x9 for 3 years now and generally love it but I'm no super-fit afelite.
I run 36f and 34r is my lowest so it's pretty high gearing and according to the calculator someone linked to gives a range of 1.06 to 3.27. For all day epics or 100km races there are times when you would want for lower gearing (I had to walk a few hills at the Fling that I knew I could have ridden in lower gearing) but for an hour or two rides it's not a problem unless you're in hilly territory.
By the that same calculator a XX1 setup with a 34t front would give me a range of .81 to 3.4 so would be 24% lower with more top end as well. To my mind that's a huge range and more than enough for the majority of circumstances. With that range you'd be able to tackle everything bar all day climbs and 1x is definitely simpler and more reliable. When I put new wheels on the bike I'll have a good look at the numbers on xx1 and see how they stack up
Like I said, it's a personal thing
Thanks again for all the feedback. I was thinking of all the events I enter and XX1 would suffice but then had a think and I actually do most of my km training on cycle paths with slick tyres on the bike so having a couple of extra gears for the higher speed is useful so will probably go to the XTR 2x10.
Gazza I love your analogy with the diamonds. I'll use it but credit Mr Anonymous...
@ps - you seem to be in NZ a lot these days. If you start supporting the all blacks we'll have you blocked from the forum!
good call.
I don't really get 1x11 considering the cost/bling factor. (I said the same about 2x10 when it first came out) but when it comes down to more realistic consumer level pricing (when i can get one at 50% discount and we are waxing lyrical about 1x12 or the next marketing thing) then I will happily put 1x11 on my next ride and see how it goes as I did with 2x10..
I'm still not a 2x10 fan.. but it did give me a 3x10 option!
soooo.. 3x11 and chocolate jam donuts anyone??
The all blacks are pretty close to an undefeated season so it is very tempting to jump on the bandwagon however despite being born in Wellington I feel obliged to stick with the Wallabies.
This is quite tempting for the price of $85 with their discount voucher. The nice thing is you can replace the rest of the cassette when it wears out and keep the 42t sprocket (assuming it's working a lot less than the other gears). I think this will be part of my 1 x 10 upgrade
http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/news/article/oneup-...
My new rig came with Sram x01 speed and I cannot complain. Every now and then I find a long steep climb and I wish I still had my granny but it most cases it's just fine.
I never liked Sram shifting in the past but this new stuff is pretty decent. If Shimano come out with some similar I will probably buy it as I know it's going to be awesome but for the time being I am happy with the Sram stuff I have.
Second ride today with XX1. Love it.