You are hereForums / By Discipline / Mountain (off road) / MTB Gear / Correct grease for pivot bearings?
Correct grease for pivot bearings?
NB: Originally posted elsewhere on the Global Riders Network and appears via syndication.
Anyone know if there is a specific grease I am supposed to use to clean and repack my maestro 4 suspension pivot/frame bearings?
Thanks
Jon
- Login to post comments
- Bookmark & share
Tags
As pivot bearings don't spin at high speed then find the thickest grease possible as it'll last the longest and keep the water out for longer.
Is that for your Anthem? If they are the originals, chuck 'em out and put in some enduro bearings.
The OE Giant bearings have less than optimal seals.
Yah it's for the anthem. I didn't see your post until I'd finished cleaning and repacking them and put everything back together! Used the thickest grease I have and I think I will replace them soon as some of the balls have flat spots. Where do I get enduro bearings? I see a deal on eBay for anthem bearings, no idea if they're any good. Any tips on popping them out without a press? A light tap with a hammer doesn't work for me;)
Hi. '
the bearings are knackered and it doesn't matter how damaged they get when being removed. Just be careful not to damage your frame or the bearings housing.
I have owned an anthem now for 4 years an have replaced the bearings several times. They are just standard industrial bearings that you can get at any local bearing shop.
most shops also have the option to buy chinese bearings, and with the lack of speed and weight the bearings are subject too, will be just fine.
As for removing the bearings. a big hammer and a drift or screw driver has always proved usefull for me.
As for a cheap home made press to get the bearings back in. take the linkage with you to bunnings and buy a bolt that just goes through the smallest bearing, and a nut to suit. Then buy a heap of washers that you can put on between the bolts head and the nut, but make sure they bigger than the housing that the bearing is pressed into.
now put the bearing into the housing, place a washer between the head of the bolt and the bearing and slide the bolt through the bearing and out the side of the housing, place a washer on the housing side, then thread down the nut. now get 2 spanners and tighten the nut... slowly but surely the bearing will be pressed into the housing, just make sure it goes in straight.
do not try the hammer and screw driver trick or the old earing pressing in the new bearing with a hammer either to press the bearing back in. you will only fuck it up and damage your bearings.
best o luck.
pete
diymtb.com.au has all the bearings and linkage parts for lots of different bikes along with other mtb parts.
Enduro Max bearings are used on suspension pivots as they have a full compilment of ball bearings, no retaining cage used as in some bearings. You can buy a kit for each bike model with every bearing required either direct from them or through a bike shop that deals with them. I used these for my 2007 Giant Reign.
Just on using bolts and washers - I found it near impossible to get them to go in dead square, so used a rubber mallet - but I did so with patience and light taps - maybe a minute or 2 each bearing - I found this to be the easiest way to get them to go in straight.
No one recommends a hammer or mallet though, because it does require common sense and care - lowest common denominator and all that
Incidentally, I always found it's the 6902 bearings. On the rocker above the rear wheel that needed replacing most - re packing was never worth it when each bearing was a few dollars to replace.
The best place for pivot bearings and also fork seals/dust wipers is Enduroforkseals.com/ That is where Hathill is talking about. They have most selections of forks and bearings. You can also get bottom brackets, ceramic bearing sets for wheels and BBs and heaps of other stuff from them.
Hi Jon,
You can get a set of enduro bearings from diymtb - http://www.diymtb.com.au/
That is what are in the bike now as I replaced them once. If you would like to borrow my press kit send me a message.
Cheers,
Nigel
Thanks everyone
Didn't think I'd get as much response as this! I used lithium based grease and someone just told me at work that that is a big no no? Time is a bit of a concern at the moment as we have to move house
will order some enduro ones. And get to it in about a month or two. Thanks Nigel for the offer I may take you up on that, may even be your neighbour soon! Have a plan to make an awesome bearing puller/presser with a bit of cutting and tigging but I guess I'll lose my garage/workshop when we move.
Thanks again lads
Honestly, lithium based grease is pretty much the most common grease. Don't sweat it, it's not like you've just mixed greases on bearings doing 10000rpm which would be a no-no.
As an owner of exactly the same bike as yours, keep an eye on the lower shock pivot bolt tension and also make sure the bearings that go in the frame on the same pivot are a tight fit - the left hand one of mine was a little loose and now needs some 641 loctite on it to keep it from moving.
How do I know my bearings need attention?
My anthem is 3.5 years currently proly done 10k Km....but suspension bearings seem fine.
Ive repacked the lower head set bearings a few times but its also still the original.
Suspension pivot bearing don't need hi temp, graphite, lithium, vegemite or other exotic additives. They are virtually stationary, once fitted the inner and outer races are fixed and only use a small range of movement with most of the load being in the same area. The balls may make a full circuit of the race once in a blue moon. The only suggestion I would make re type of grease is that if you ride in water (especially if salty) or use a hose to wash bike, use water proof boat bearing grease, but one that is a 'softish' grease - hard grease will stay hard as there is no heat in the bearings to soften it. Over time this may mean the grease is pushed away from the load areas where it is needed, softer grease overcomes this problem a little.
To check suspension: Let all the air out of the rear shock. Back off compression and rebound damping (though not essential - but write your settings down), remove rear wheel, invert bike and support saddle, cycle rear suspension diamond through full suspension movement. If any notchiness, clicks or pivot bearing creaks, then you may need to service or replace bearings. Getting creaks from pivots whilst riding is an indication a service may be required.
To clean and repack (not replace): Mark position of the outer race with permanent marker (before removal!), remove bearing (do one at a time), lift the bearing seal with a scriber; wash, clean and dry the bearing leaving mark so still visible; repack (almost fully leaving very little air space) with preferred grease and refit seal; refit bearing so outer race is at 120 degrees to original placement. Once all bearings done, recycle the suspension as above to check movement.
FWIW.
Thank You Oldandslower.
checked this this morning. Range is smooth but there was some play. Ive got one of those bearings thats supposed to last 10 000 hr oe something rediclulous. You know the one on top of the shock. But then went trough all the bearings checking them each & found one ever so slightly loose. Problem solved.
Happy camper.....errr rider that is
yeh these guys are great, DIY MTB I replace mine every year, regardless.
But I do have the maestro press which makes the job real easy.