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Converting to 1 x 10
NB: Originally posted elsewhere on the Global Riders Network and appears via syndication.
Could somebody please help me with selecting the correct rear derailleur cage size.
At the moment i have a non clutch Sram XO rear dreailleur with a long cage, i'm running 11-36 & 24-38T 2 x 10.
I want to go 1 x 10 with Wolftooth 42T rear added, & 32T front. I know i need a new Sram clutch derailleur XO Type 2.1, but will i need a medium or long cage? I also plan on running an MRP AMg guide, will this package run better with the optional 16T Wolftooth sells for rear?
Any help from someone who has done this conversion would be much appreciated.
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Similar setup at the moment and definitely recommend. Yes, you'll need a clutch derailleur although not necessarily XO. I use X9 with a medium cage.
I don't have the 16t and only miss it occasionally when on the road to or from the trails.
Found the shifting slightly clunky early on but it's been absolutely flawless for the last eight months. It's wearing well and I've only dropped the chain a couple of times.
Thats with no chain guide and a not so perfect chain line.
Good luck
I'm pretty much the same.
Converted to Wolf tooth 42 at the back and 30 direct mount at the front. Used a type 2 X0 medium cage and also got the 16 tooth cog. Took a while to make sure chain length was correct and B tension was set properly but since then it's been great. I dont think it shifts quite as cleanly as previously but the difference is marginal if any. It also let me put my reverb lever on the left side below the bar.
It's first outing was 5 laps of the Mont and just done 3 days down at wingello. Haven't dropped a chain or missed a shift. I was a bit sceptical to begin with but now I'm a evangelistic convert....
It's very quiet, very simple, loses weight and seems very reliable so far.
CB
Thanks for all the helpful info guys.
So why is it that people say the shifts aren't as crisp on 1 x 10, is that the same for 1 x 11? Why.
Can you run Shimano XT rear derailleur, shifter, & chain on Sram PG 1050 cassette?
Does Sram or Shimano run better for 1 x 10?
Why is Shimano XT gear so much cheaper than Sram XO?
Worth pointing out that you don't actually 'need' a clutch derailleur if you are running a guide. The top guide keeps the chain on. You can't physically drop a chain with a guide. Your long cage derailleur will be fine with your proposed setup.
A guide also removes the necessity to have a narrow wide chain ring at the front. A normal profile single ring will work and is cheaper.
I run SRAM 1x9 on my hard tail and Shimano 1x10 on the full suspension. Shifting is perfect on both as they are running standard cassettes. You only start to get issues with shifting when you add conversion kits like the 42T ring as the derailleur wasn't really designed for that sized ring. It will work, but it won't be as smooth.
your current derailleur will work fine. No harm in running it and buying a clutch one down the line. You will love the clutch once you get it. The bike is so much quieter. I still run a top guide with mine as i have dropepd a chain in a race before.
The shifting suffers with the 42 tooth ring as the derailleur is not designed for gears larger than 36 tooth. You have to adjust the B screw out a fair bit to ensure that the derailleur does not hit the 42 tooth. As such, when you are in the small gears, their is less chain 'wrap' than ideal and shifting will be slower. The 11 speed derrailuers are desgined to move across a cassette that has 10-42 teeth and therefore do not suffer from this problem.
I have found with the wolftooth narrow wide chainring I didn't need a guide or a rear clutch derailleur, I only dropped the chain once in 12 months with just a normal x7 RD (long cage, Giant Anthem). I now have a clutch RD (medium cage) and 40 and 16 cog on the back and it works great, but not really much better than it did before, except the 16 just filled a hole and stopped me "gear hunting".
If you have rear suspension remember to allow for the chain length to grow under rear suspension compression. Well my chain length grows under compression, different suspension geometries have different effects I think.
Looking to go 1x11 looked at what I need to spend and just under $400will get me converted . Whats everyone thoughts for general trail riding 42 or 40 on the rear cassette ill be 32 on front chaining .
I too will go 1 x 11 as soon as XT is available. I currently run a 30t front ring and a 11-40 converted rear on a specialized Camber. I have never been needing a lower gear.
However I have just got a 32t oval ring(unridden as yet) and was thinking that if I go up to a 34t i could get a 42 tooth cassette.
Ans the price for an XT rear der, cassette and shifter plus kmc chain is $330 via chainreaction.
If you've got a shimano rear derailleur, I’d seriously consider a goatlink from wolftooth.
It's a fact that winding out the b screw to accommodate 40 or 42t rear cog will compromise ‘chain wrap’ (degrees chain makes contact ‘wraps’ around rear cogs). It doesn’t seem to matter so much with larger cogs but is noticeable on smaller ones.
It's my opinion this will lead to faster wear of chain/cassette (especially in smaller gears)……….I’m pretty sure this is fact.
“Compatible Shimano derailleurs have a Direct Mount link (including spacer, if so equipped) or B-pivot knuckle with a thickness of 7.9-8.1mm”
For just USD$20 the goatlink will save you in the long run. You’ll also save on shipping if you get the 42/16 from them as well (only a bit more expensive than oneup)
I’m going to go 1x10 in a few months & will stick with shimano xt for chain/mid cage derailleur/shifter with wolftooth 42 & 16t rear + 32t front + goatlink. I’ve not yet decided on cassette brand, but prefer sram 11-36 as the slightly different cog sizes make sense to me……..especially when removing 15/17 to replace with 16t. (I've read many forums that say this mixed branding should work fine).
Standard Shimano: 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28-32-36, with 42/16: 11-13-16-19-21-24-28-32-36-42
Standard Sram: 11-13-15-17-19-22-25-28-32-36, with 42/16: 11-13-16-19-22-25-28-32-36-42
This is also a good read on narrow wide chainrings: http://shop.garbaruk.com/blog/differenceNarrowWide/
I believe taller teeth will retain the chain better. I’ll either get the wolftooth or a Hope front ring.
I've got xt 3x cranks & will need to improve the chainline as it's currently 'straight' in between 7/8 rear cogs. (ideal is between 5/6 for 1x10). I measure this by line of sight, not with ruler.
Cheers, Daisy
Earlier in the thread I commented that I was using SRAM x7 rear der with my wolftooth 40t cog and going well. Well I was going well until the b screw on the x7 decided to start slipping down the side of the stop, ultimately fatally loostening the b screw mount (which uses a kind of plastic washer on the x7), and loosening the bushing in the hanger attachment. It might be my poor or optimistic b screw adjustment which is to blame but have now killed 2 x7 derailleurs and am wondering whether to upgrade to x9 or x0 or give up and remount a front derailleur. Anyone had b screw problems with x9 or x0? I'm hoping the b screw setup might be stronger.
I ended up putting an absolute black 40tooth on the rear turned the b screw right in no problems yet and put a 1x specific 32 front ring on as well
Has anyone seen the new Praxis 11-40 10speed cassette??
Belrose Bicycles and Northern Beaches Cycles are selling them. This is a much better option than messing around with the 40th add ons.
http://www.praxiscycles.com/the-scoop-on-our-upc...
What are they selling them for?
think I saw they are around $180
very well made by the looks