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3 servicing questions
I'm just about to go over my bike before the 'Angry Doctor' in a few weeks.
1 - Do I need any 'special' grease for the front neck bearing after I clean it? Or will just normal bearing grease from SCA do the same thing...
2 - Is it possible to 'service' the derailleur? Not adjusting gears, but actually applying some lubricant to springs etc.
3 - If I have to change brake pads mid-race, do you have to push the pistons back in? And if so, how do you then bleed the air out of your brakes mid-race??? I have always bled my brakes completely when changing pads.
Thanks for your advice! I am just loving this website. I have re-found my childhood love of pushbikes thanks to all the tracks and advice listed on this great site. I avoid riding on the roads at all costs. I just don't trust drivers! All the tracks listed here have been an absolute source of inspiration.
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Hi Chris,
1- You don’t need special grease for the headset bearings, but do use quality grease on any bearing on your bike as cheap stuff usually washes out or get thin quite easily. I’ve been using Finish Line Teflon grease and it doesn’t take long to “disappear”. Some people use marine grease and swear by it, but I’ve never tried it myself. While you are at it, rotate the bearings if they are the same size (put the lower one on top and the top one below) as the one below gets more crap in it.
2- Yes it is, at least for Sram derailleurs. I’ve got a X0 and it can be completely disassembled so it is easy to clean and lube springs and pivots. If your pulleys have bearings it is quite easy to put some grease as well, but if they have bushings I’m not sure if you are supposed to put anything in there.
3- There is no need to bleed your brakes when changing pads, unless you by mistake press the brake lever without pads in the calliper, thus ejecting the pistons. Just be careful with that and use your tyre levers to carefully push the pistons back.
Go for a ride or two after servicing the bike just to make sure it is all working.
Hi ChrisChris
Good on you for giving the servicing a go yourself.
1) You can use special grease but I tend to use some teflon stuff I was given at an event once (can't remember the name). It seems to do ok but I do change it regularly which is just as important. If I didn't use that I would use anything I had in the garage as long as it was clean. I trip to a decent car parts place or LBS will help you choose if you are picky.
2) I apply light oil to front and rear mech, something like 3-in-1. Depending on the rollers you can do them as well (ceramic ones don't need it AFAIK).
3) You wont need to change your pads during the race unless it's raining lots. Just make sure they have lots of meat on them before you start. I rarely bleed my brakes these days, certainly not when changing pads. You can usually get the air out by taping the level to the bar over night and making sure the bike is upright. When you put new pads in you can gently push the pistons back in (after a little lube) with something soft like wood or a screwdriver handle. Don't force them, they should just slide in once you get the angle right. Of course keep the lube off your disk
Don't forget to take some dry lube to do the chain at the half way point, just don't sit down while you are doing it or you'll never get up again
depends on your head set. Sealed units can generally get away with lighter grease, something like slick honey. For non sealed I generally use a bearing lithium grease.
2. Depends on the deraileur. some are more pull apartable (and more importantly putbacktogtehrable) than others. I generally hit mine with a a bit of Pro Link chain lube when I do my chain.
3. Sure you could but why would you want to? If you are getting low chuck in a new set and bed them in before the race and keep the worn down ones as spares.
I know some people go through pads like nothing else in the wet but a lot of it comes down to how you brake. Don't drag them in wet conditions and I can't see how you would wear them out in a race.
I made it through 1 very wet 12hr + three or 4 8hrs and a lot of riding in between on a set of pads.
If your worried about using brake pads up just put a new set in them before the race. Metalic last longer but don't preform as well as organic.
Flynny, I've run out & have been looking around for slick honey but can't find anywhere stocking it. Do you know any bike shops nth or west Sydney who stock it?
Here are some more specs that might help.
2009 Giant Anthem X2. SLR rear derailleur. M486 brakes. I've already done over 1000km on the current set of pads and I reckon there's around 1mm left still.
Mechanical stuff in general I love! I have a lot of experience working on cars (dad's a mechanic), but I'm still learning the intricate details of bike maintenance. The basic way that brakes and derailleurs work is very simple, but the wrong lube/advice/grease etc could be very harmful!
Chrischris
get a copy of Zinn. It is the bible when working on your bike. Sells for $40.
Any bike shop should be able to get it for you. If you have no luck in Sydney give me a hoy at insane. 02 63513171