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Tyres, different sizes
NB: Originally posted elsewhere on the Global Riders Network and appears via syndication.
Just curious to know if it's a good choice or if there any benefit to ride with tyres of different sizes (at the same time)?
On the bike I recently bought (dual suspensions), they mounted a 26x 2.35 at the front and a 26x 2.1 at the back (Maxxis High Roller).
Cheers
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Just a summary of different combinations I could read true all of these nice advices:
FRONT — BACK
Maxxis Ignitor + Maxxis Larsen TT
Kenda Nevegal + Kenda Slant Six
Schwalbe Nobby Nic + Schwalbe Racing Ralph
Maxxix Ignitor + Maxxix Crossmark
Maxxis Crossmarks ++
Maxxis Larsen TT ++
Schwalbe Racing Ralphs ++
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It's very normal to have tyres of different sizes and completely different tyres altogether. Something that rolls a bit better on the back and something that grabs a bit better on the front, especially through corners. Often it would be a completely different tyre on the front and in your case, maybe the High Roller at the back and then something like an Ignitor at the front. There are no rules and it's worth trying a few combinations to see what you like best but it would actually be more unusual to see the same tyre front and back than different tyres.
Ive found it is more important to have better traction on the front. Taking a corner your rear can slide out but you can still recover. If your front slides out, your more than likely going to the dirt with the bike. Technique is also important. When taking a corner. Transfering your body weight to the front wheel can improve the traction allowing you to take a corner faster without it sliding out.
It also depends on the type of trail you are riding, rocky, sand, mud, snow etc.
FWIW Hamo runs Small Block 8's front and rear, so go figure
So it really is down to personal pref. My regular ride is an Ignitor up front and Larssen out back but I do also play around with other setups. Got Crossmarks, Small Blocks 8's, Nevegals and GAER Race Barrows back in the Mancave™
I run Crossmarks 2.1 front and rear on my 26" and Kenda Karma's 1.9 front and rear on my 29er. I will be fitting Crossmarks to the 29er for training and when its dry and use the Karma's when wet and racing as they are lighter.
XC something with low rolling resistance on back, normally narrower.
Technical and DH same width all round for handling.
I often run dual ply on rear and single on front for AM to keep weight down with 2.3 spec or 2.5 maxxis all round.
Wider tyres also let you run lower pressure for better grip and cushioning without pinch flatting. However grip and rolling resistance efficiency are generally tradeoffs.
If you are just getting into riding the most underlooked aspect is tyre pressure. Get a track pump with gauge and set pressure before every ride. Will keep handling, resistance etc consistent for you each ride and help prevent pinch flats. You'll soon learn how much pressure you need for no hassles, later on you may drop it back a little.
As the trails dry out I've been running crossmarks front and rear but during the winter I had a nobbly up front with a crossmark at the rear. I also use my bike for commuting so running crossmarks is a lot more efficient on the road.
Kenda's front & rear= 2.35 soft Nevegal front & 2.1 dual compound Slant Six rear-has given bike & me a such better ride.
I've been running Schwalbe Nobby Nic 2.25 front and Racing Ralph 2.1 on the rear. Typical pressures would be 24-25 on the front (yes, you read that right) and usually 32 on the rear, but can vary between 30 and 34 depending on the track. I run tubeless on UST rims.
The Nobby Nic is quite sensitive to pressures. Running it at 30, where I used to set my previous favourite the 2.35 Ignitor, it was scary skatey. On the advice of nobmobbers I kept lowering the pressure until it came good. I prefer it because it gives more warning than the Ignitor before it lets go.
I'm not that quick though - haven't broken into the thirties yet around Manly Dam, so maybe you should take what I say with a grain of salt
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Maxxis also measure to the outer edges so a pretty small knob tyre like the Crossmark looks big compared to the same size Ignitor.
I run a 2.35 Ignitor front & a 2.1 Crossmark rear (Both UST) on my 5" travel Enduro & this combination seems to be the best combination of durability, handling & speed that I've found so far.
Not race light but who cares when I can ride hard with no drama or cost.
T
Not only is is fairly common to ride with different tyres & sizes on the front & back, you can also experiment putting tyres on backwards to alter their handling characteristics.
For example a Maxis Larsen TT are comprised of lots of ramped knobs that provide good climbing traction when installed in the indicated rotational direction, but if you install one backwards then those biting edges of the knobs are now facing forward & provide grippier braking.
However, the ramped side of the knobs are now facing backwards & you'll lose some forward grip that you may notice when accelerating or climbing.
I've ridden with 2.1 Larsen Exception TT's front/rear and recently switched to 2.1 Racing Ralphs DD front/rear (which appear skinnier)
I hate UST (!) and run the tyres at around 45 PSI, I find knowing where my wheels are is important (ride a hard tail too).
I've hit sub 30 lap times on Manly damn a few times now, there's only a few sections of the track where a wipe out is possible and lower pressures would be advantageous - that siad, the only time I've crashed is when I've been a bit silly showing off
I Run Racing Ralphs on both the Front and Back, with 27PSI, that seems to work really well on my bike and it hooks up perfectly, with the occasional 2 wheel drifts....sick.
One thing I find is in the wet, you kiss goodbye to all traction, however when dry they are awesome. I had them on at the Mont and in the dust there, they hooked up so well.
I run 2.4 x 29 Racing Ralphs on both the Front and Back, with 21PSI front and 23PSI rear, that seems to work really well on my bikes and they hook up perfectly, with the occasional 2 wheel drifts.... I weigh occasionally between 76 and 80 kg....
I run whatever is on special at Torpedo 7 and I run 40psi, some times 2.35's sometimes 2.1's It makes little difference for me.
I'm with Craked, whatever is on special is what I ride. It must be the tight Yorkshire man in me
I'm not exactly a particularly good rider either. I often buy a few of the same tyres in pairs on special so I never get chance to try different tyres. Then I insist on running them into the ground before even thinking about not using them anymore. Think I've got, and had for some time now, about 5 pairs of brand new tyres in the garage. Oh, and some of them are UST... I don't even have UST wheels but they were a bargain!
I currently run Maxxis Crossmark 2.1 front and rear with 40 PSi on the rear to avoid pinch flats and about 35 PSi in the front. The bike is very uneasy, or is that just me
How do you know when to change tyres? Is there a tread-o-meter guide?!?
"How do you know when to change tyres?"
When they're dirty.....
@andyfev. Even tight Yorkshire men know a cheap tyre that doesn't work is wasting money. When you say the bike is very "uneasy" I'm assuming you have little front grip and little turn in. This is because fronts are much more important than rears.
Basically the only surface a crossmark at 35 will work on is hardpack. In anything else they are either skittish or fill with mud. Different surfaces require different tyres and pressures. For loose, sandy stuff I like a Rendez or Ignitor at no more than 30psi. For wet clayee stuff I like something with big knobs and an open pattern. Continental seem pretty good at these. Check out the mud king or the survival pros if you can get them.
The rears are much easier. You need something that rolls well and doesn't spin under load. A lot of people here run crossmarks on the rear at pressures from 28 - 45 psi. Lower pressures will give a bit more grip and less rolling resistance when tubeless. I don't like the feeling of the bike moving on the tyre so I run mine at 40' Like you, this is also to avoid pinchflats. Other options are the racing ralph or small block 8s.
@LetThemEatCake. Thanks for the good advice. You're right, there is virtually no grip on the front end and I often have to correct a front slide, which on unknown trails can be hairy at times! The good news is that the tight Yorkshire man in me has been overcome and I'm going to install a different tyre on the front. I have The Captain Armadillo I'm going to give a shot and run at a lower pressure. I'll keep the rear for now as I find the rear isn't a problem... or is it?
Cheers
To cakeboy's point it's all about the pressure at the front. I run a UST Monorail at the front (soon to be replaced by a non-UST Ikon) and the couple of times I've put too much pressure in the front (about 35 psi) it's really noticable and unsettling. The front end slides and folds in very quickly so there's lots of nervous moments and jerky corners, letting 5 psi or so out makes the world of difference as it sticks a lot better and when it slides it's relatively slow and catchable.
For the record a Crossmark on the back provides great traction when it's reversed without much speed loss as the ramps really dig in
Steady on
for me will be small block 8. Been told on both the Front and Back in the dry they are awesome and they prolly seal up a ton easier than racing ralphs...
I've been told Kenda're much heavier.
Sadly, no free kicks. Tough = heavy. Light = less tough. My UST RR rear is looking a bit secondhand atm, I must admit. Wouldn't wanna run a non-UST one as a ghetto tubeless. :9
with Ralphs yet, however the sidewalls do look incredibly flexible and running them on Stans conversion, the sealing process is a pain. Funnily enough my Nobly Nics sealed easy.
Light. Strong. Cheap
I have run both 420g Conti supersonics and 360g Schwalbe Furious Freds tubeless.
You have to be very careful on the rocks, but they are very fast.
The sidewall let go at the end of Long trail today....
too big a cut for the sealant to fix 
Put in a tube and got to try out my CO2 cannister for the first time - those things are awesome.
How was the trail? Keen for a ride in the morning. Made a call and went surfing today instead.
Drivetrain wasn't sounding happy by the time we got back, though. Belting down now at Allambie (11pm), Terrey Hills would be getting the same and I reckon it would be much wetter by tomorrow morning.
Thanks to Hans for the wakeup call this morning
Broke a derailleur hanger too ... bike was ghost shifting and thought I must have had a rock knock the RD (turned out to be a bit of vine wrapped in the cassette) so was carefully bending it back ... and it came off in my hand
Haven't had a mechanical since April, I guess it was time to catch up today.
Belted down here (Willoughby) all night too. No riding this morning
Bad luck on the hanger. Clearly you don't know your own strength!
on the Pac Highway yesterday and they were covered in mud, I stuck to the tarmac yesterday, dont want to be destroying drive trains on my Yeti.
Thanks for all these comments.
I've put a summ of the combinations, if you have more to suggest let me know and I'll update it.
Btw, Michelin tyres are on special on Torpedo7, what do combination do your recommend?
Front wildROCK'R & Back wildGRIP'R ?
> http://www.torpedo7.com.au/content/productpicks/...
I'd go 2.2 wild rock front and 2.1 wild gripper out back ,now if I can find my credit card
has anyone tried these http://www.maxxis.com/Bicycle/Mountain/Ikon.aspx
Was thinking of maybe sticking one on front as it's 2.2 but it looks a fairly fast rolling tyre so not sure how grippy it would be (I like grippy up front). This is for a 29er too.
They are getting really good reviews at the moment, I am likewise about to put one on the front of my 26" to replace a 2.1 Monorail. It seems in the dry they are very grippy but only OK in the mud but then so are most of the alternatives. Nice and light too.
The weight is a fairly important factor, I might take a punt on one and get some ignitors too.
One of my mates is running them for the Croc next week, that says it all really