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Installing a new chain
NB: Originally posted elsewhere on the Global Riders Network and appears via syndication.
Gday fellas just got a little question for you guys (and girls).
I bought a new 10 speed shimano xt chain to replace my cheese cutter kmc and wondering if anyone has any tips for the install? Can i cut to the same length as my old chain or will stretching make it difficult? Also can i reuse the quick link and are different brand quicklinks interchangeable?
Thanks,
Jono.
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Yes. Probably not. Maybe.
Put the chain around the big ring and big cog, pull it tight so the RD is fully stretched forward. Overlap the chain and note where you should split it... then add a link and cut it there.
You should be able to re-use the quick link.
If you have to get a new quick link I recommend the Wipperman ones, the Sram and Shimano ones are poop.
Shimano don't make quick links, they use pins.
The KMC quick links are good and are reusable. The SRAM links are not reusable according to SRAM but more because they are so hard to split...
For the cost of a quick link, get a new one to match your nice new chain.
this is how I split the new SRAM quick links:
http://vimeo.com/31298259
I use the Sram Powerlink and reuse them without any problem.
) between thumb and index finger. You can use the other hand to pull the rear derailleur forward and give the chain some slack, which helps a lot. The use of pliers, unless it's the proper tool, is more likely to damage the link.
They're not hard to remove without tools if you use the right method. most people hold the links on either side of the Powerlink and try to bring them together to disengage the plates. The problem with that is, because you can't hold them perfectly in line while you're pushing them together, it actually forces the plates out and basically locks the pins heads in their recess.
You need to squeeze the plates of the Powerlink together (To disengage the pin heads) and slide them in opposite directions. In fact, it's a one-hand job (Not a one hand-job!
Having said that, it makes sense to check the link carefully before reusing it. If the chain needs to be replaced, it's obvious that the link will also be worn to a certain extent. Look for bent plates or grooving in the pins.
Just use the same length, good chance it was right the first time.
Yes they are interchangeable and reusable , just sram don't guarantee there's . Keep using your kmc link if you are changing to Shimano chains - their pins are a pita.
Oh, and KMC chains aren't shit, they probably make the shimano and sram ones anyway. Anyone with a worn out part tends to blame the worn out part and switch brands - after a while they go through every brand and get back to the original one after realising it's the nature of the product to wear out - brand matters not
YBN are cheap and good on ebay too btw
Wipperman connex are the way to go for removable links
so you can use no tools for the 10 speed power lock?
9 speed are easy, but I'm yet to be able to work out how to do the 10 speed without tools.
Sorry MrSarcastic (You posted while I was typing mine) but that's exactly the way I reckon you shouldn't do it. As clearly shown, it is fumbly and quite aggressive towards the link.
It's like trying to open a door without releasing the latch.
Try what I described and you'll find that the link isn't locked, doesn't require the brute force of pliers to "snap" open.
KMC chains aren't bad, they are just made of cheese and don't last.
Also i just double checked my chain link and its a sram powerlink. I have no idea what you guys are talking about with it not being reusable, i have taken it on and off easy 20 times and its been perfect.
Ive also never had any trouble taking it off or putting it back on for that matter. Yes its stiff but i've never struggled, all i do is grip each side of the link by the rollers and press both sides into each other and very gently rock side to side as i press each side into another.
The quick link is still very tight so i probably will reuse it on the new chain.
Has anyone tried these new xt siltec chains? The shape looks completely different to my current chain which is pretty interesting.
If i do cut the chain to the same length surely i wont get it exactly the same due to the old chain being stretched? Do i just make it a link shorter or is that too much?
To be sure.+
Also. Controversial topic. Leave the shipping oil on or strip off and relube?
The KMC X10SL chains are supposed to be the longest lasting chains on the market according to my interwebz search, better than XTR apparently. I've had a good run so far.
Stock OEM chains that come on bikes are *always* made of cheese - regardless of brand - as they are not as sexy as other shiny bits such as a fancy rear derailleur.
Yet they are probably the most cost effective way of extending the life of your drivetrain ... if you chuck it immediately and put on a good one straight away.
I leave the packing grease on as long as possible.
That's just what seems to work best in our local conditions. If I moved to a different area my choice might change.
The quicklink in the video is same as on my bike now , it is impossible to take of by hand without using tools when i get it of this weekend it will be g.oing in the bin and using something better
I think everyone missed an important point. Your new chain might not shift on your old chainrings/cluster. It all depends on how worn old your old gear is. As your chain wears it does the same to your gears. If you let it get too far than your new chain will slip on your gears causing you endless pain. Get yourself a chain checker and start swapping your chain out when it gets to 0.5 stretch. Then throw it out when it gets to 0.75.
I run 3 chains per bike, rotating them when they stretch a little. Tends to make cluster and chain rings last much longer.
I never like saying barnsey is right but barnsie is right
Getto way to check is to measure 12 inches from the center of 1 pin. the 12 inch mark should line up in the center of another pin. If it is more than 1/8th of and inch out the teeth are too worn and your new chain wont mesh properly, it will jump under load and the chain will wear very fast. Best to put the old chain back on and run it until everything is rooted then change chain, cluster and rings at the same time.
If it's within the limit do Robs method but leave a link or two spare, especially if you have a dually as the chain distance will generally change throughout the travel, most lengthen at the start to counter pedal bob.
KMC MUCH better/longer lasting than Shimano chains IMO..
KMC chain + shimano cluster.
+1 for rotating 2 or 3 chains, makes cassette & chainrings last longer, and you always have a nice clean and lubed chain to fit to your bike for the next outing.
Grab your favoured drink and check out the article on page 44 of Tour International:
http://tour-int.com/sample-issue/
This is a German mag that is a big seller in Europe and being German they don't go of gut feelings but rather test stuff out. Check out the chart on page 47 for there wear result after 2800 simulated kms.
They tested 24 chains
Durability wise they rated:
1 Dura-Ace 7901
2 Shimano 105 5701
3 Shimano Ultegra 6701
4,5,6 Campag
other notable mentions:
10 Wieperman Connex 10SL
11 KMC X10
12 KMC X10L Silver
16 KMC X10 SL
Highest placed SRAM chain was a embarrassing 15th (PC 1070)
Oops sorry, Shimano don't do quick links, seems a KMC was thrown in with my last chain purchase.
With my last Sram one I had to twist a piece of copper wire round the links(usually use circlip pliers but they were slipping off) to get the damn thing undone, I always take them on and off a couple of times to make sure I can do it on the trail.
Cassette and rings are fine, just fits in .75 so i should be good for one more chain, ill no for sure once ive swapped the chain over i guess, hopefully get it done tommorow.
Keep rotating chains.
You can/should always trust people who explain things in "ye olde" inches and fractions of..
If you have rear suspension, remember to take the suspension movement into account. I recently added a giant cog (40T)and a new shorter rear derailleur and found I needed a longer chain as it ran out of travel. Size the chain with all the air out of the rear shock and in fully depressed position (mine is Giant Maestro system, other systems may vary).
Ill defiantly note that. Correct me if im wrong, but im pretty sure the fsr 4 bar suspension set up on my stumpy compensates the chain length for suspension travel. I though the maestro did as well?
Maestro may compensate a bit (not sure about other systems) but not completely apparently as it all looked good for chain tension until I sat on the seat and thankfully noticed the completely taut chain and stressed derailleur. The old big ring to big ring technique didn't seem to work unless I took the suspension travel into account (Giant Anthem 2012 medium length rear derailleur, BTW).
Jono your 4 bar will use chain growth to counteract pedal bob. That's why they work so well.
Just finished installing my chain. Ive been around the block a few times testing under different load and gears and it seems to be spot on. Is that it or can it decide it dosn't like the cassette when i'm on the trails. Oh and is the chain directional?
Cheers,
Jono.
Shimano chains are directional. They have side that faces left and a side that faces right. Different cut on the side plates to engage with the front and rear shifting ramps.
Can't remember for KMC.
: I think they may be the same.